R51  Body Lift Kit Installation

Placement of Body Lift Spacers (50mm” (2″) and 70mm 2-3/4″)

Before fitting the body lift spacers, there’s a few things that need to be done to prepare for the lift. These are all relatively straight forward and easy to carry out.1. The engine cover (2.5 Diesel) will need to be removed, this is held down with two 10mm bolts. This is due to the engine cover catching on the fan shroud as the body lifts. This can be shaved down afterwards and refitted.

2. Next you will need to remove the front bumper splitter trim (10mm bolts) and front bash guard (10mm bolts) to gain access to the bottom of the fan shroud trim. The clips holding the lower half of the fan shroud need to be squeezed and then the lower shroud can be removed. Don’t worry about refitting the front splitter trim until the lift is complete.

3. Next both front arch liners (inner fenders) need to be removed (Philips screws and trim clips). This will then expose the front body mounts and various bits of wiring that need to be unclipped.

4. The steering column now needs to be disconnected. In the drivers front wheel arch you will see a 14mm nut pinching the column onto the rest of the steering system. Undo this slightly and slide the column up towards the rear of the vehicle and leave the nut loose.

5. In the same wheel arch  you’ll also see some wiring that runs between the body to the chassis at the rear of the arch (side nearest the rear of the vehicle) that’s held in place with a clip. Undo the clip so the wiring can move freely as you lift the body. This can be clipped back in once the lift is complete.

6. Moving around to the other front wheel arch, you’ll see two fuel hoses clipped onto the top of the chassis (towards the rear of the arch). Pop the clip out of the chassis so the fuel lines can move along with the body lift.

7. Unclip both front ABS sensors wiring looms from the metal bracket towards the top of the wheel arch.

8. Last of the work to do in the wheel arches is to remove some foam found behind the rear bumper on either side. The foam slides onto the end of the crash bar and causes the bumper to catch whilst lifting. Some models don’t have this fitted so check first. If it is present, just slide it off.

9. Last of the wiring that needs to be unclipped is found in the engine bay. Following the positive lead between the battery and the starter motor. You’ll find two clips that need releasing. These can be refitted once the lift is complete.

10. Last step before the actual lift is to remove a bracket which appears to stop the body from falling off of the chassis in a serious failure of some kind. This bracket can be found by the rear differential and is held on with a number of 14mm bolts. I’d suggest letting them soak in WD40 for a while before as I’ve heard some people have struggled to remove them depending on the condition of the under carriage. I then greased the bolts and refitted them without the bracket to stop mud & water getting into the body and subframe.

11. Now go down the passenger side of the vehicle and loosen all of the body mount bolts (17mm), don’t fully remove the bolts.

12. Moving onto the driver’s side, fully remove the body mount bolts.You’ll see a ‘bump’ just past the second body mount from the front, put something soft on the jack (hockey puck is ideal) and start to lift the body on the ‘bump’.

13. Once its lifted enough to fit the new  body spacer on top of the original body mounts, slot the new spacer in and fit the new replacement bolts supplied. Don’t fully tighten the bolts yet.

14. Move to the opposite side and fit the new spacers. Lower the weight of the vehicle onto the new spacers, remove the bolts and apply a drop of permatex threadlocker then tighten all body mount bolts to 88NM (65ft-lb)

15. Now refit wiring clips and pull the steering column down the shaft and tighten the nut to 26.5NM (20ft-lb).

16. Refit the bumper splitter and arch liners.