R50 Lift Kits Installation Procedure
- raise the truck
- remove wheel
- remove the 3 top bolts that retains the strut. They are under the hood, where the strut tower is.
- remove the 2 big bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle. This is where the break rotor is.
- remove the strut
- compress spring
- dismantle the strut by removing the top nut
- take the top plate (the one with the bolts pressed fit in) and bring it to a vise where the plate is sitting and you can hammer out the bolts (You can also use a press if you have access to one)
- install the spacer on the top plate by threading the spacers with the longer bolts supplied
- re-install the top plate on the strut by screwing the top nut. At that point you have in this order from bottom to top : strut,top plates,spacer
Before releasing the tension on the coil, make sure of these :
1) The top COIL SEAT PLATE has a notch/stamped triangle. This mark should be 180 degrees from where the knucle attaches to the strut.
2) The top PLATE has the letters L and R stamped on top of it. Depending on if you're doing the driver(L) or passenger(R) strut, the LETTER should ALIGN with the NOTCH/Stamped triangle of the TOP COIL SEAT PLATE.
- release the spring tension from the compressor
-re-install the strut. Do not torque the 3 strut bolts to more than 29 ft/lb
You may need some camber bolts in order to have an alignment. I personally use the ones from ingalls : https://www.ingallseng.com/81260-14mm-fastcam-bolts_pair.html
As for the rear spacers, they simply install between the coil seat and the coil spring. You may need to compress the spring in order to get enough space to insert the spacer. The preferred placement is at the bottom (under the coil). The coil fit inside the cup of the spacer.
R50 Crosslink & Skidplates Installation Procedure
R51 Lift Kit Installation
- Raise the front of the truck
- Remove the front wheels
- Disconnect the Front stabilizer bar on both sides at the connecting rod level
- Disconnect the Upper ball joint from the knuckle and secure the knuckle. Make sure to support the knuckle with a jack stand and leave the upper ball joint nut attached. Once you start hammering the top of the knuckle, the ball joint will release and the nut will catch the falling knuckle. This step can be sketchy if you never done this before...take your time.
- remove the vdc wire from the bracket in order to prevent damage
- remove the 3 top 14mm nuts that secures the strut to the strut tower
- Remove 10mm bolt to remove the bracket if it is in the way
-slip lower mount out of bracket and lower the strut assembly
- once you have the strut in your hands, put the spacer on top and secure it with the 3 14mm nuts you removed from the previous steps. Use the included thread locking compound (1-2 drops per bolt) and torque the nuts to 22 ft-lb. ** Do not touch or torque the other nuts that are securing the new studs in the spacer. They are already torqued and locktited **
*** At this point your strut is ready for re-installation. Since the struts will need to be rotated 180 degrees (because of the spacers), you will need to re-install your driver strut on the passenger side and vice-versa. **** Use the nylok nuts with the washers and use again the thread locking compound. Torque to 22 ft-lb *** DO NOT OVER TORQUE OR YOU RISK DAMAGING THE SPACERS ***
- Raise the rear of the truck
- Remove the wheels
- While supporting the lower rear coil cup with a jack, remove the lower link bolt.
- keep note of the orientation of your coil. You want to put it back in the same way.
- insert the spacer between the top rubber isolator and the coil.
- re-install your coil with the jack while holding the coil in place. This might be a good time to use the help of a second person. re-torque your lower link bolt .
** At that point, your lift kit is installed. You will need to perform an alignment in order to get the camber back within specs. The R51 Pathfinder does have adjustable camber bolts (front and back). ***