R50 Lift Kits Installation Procedure
- raise the truck
- remove wheel
- remove the 3 top bolts that retains the strut. They are under the hood, where the strut tower is.
- remove the 2 big bolts that attach the strut to the knuckle. This is where the break rotor is.
- remove the strut
- compress spring
- dismantle the strut by removing the top nut
- take the top plate (the one with the bolts pressed fit in) and bring it to a vise where the plate is sitting and you can hammer out the bolts (You can also use a press if you have access to one)
- install the spacer on the top plate by threading the spacers with the longer bolts supplied
- re-install the top plate on the strut by screwing the top nut. At that point you have in this order from bottom to top : strut,top plates,spacer
Before releasing the tension on the coil, make sure of these :
1) The top COIL SEAT PLATE has a notch/stamped triangle. This mark should be 180 degrees from where the knucle attaches to the strut.
2) The top PLATE has the letters L and R stamped on top of it. Depending on if you're doing the driver(L) or passenger(R) strut, the LETTER should ALIGN with the NOTCH/Stamped triangle of the TOP COIL SEAT PLATE.
- release the spring tension from the compressor
-re-install the strut. Do not torque the 3 strut bolts to more than 29 ft/lb
You may need some camber bolts in order to have an alignment. I personally use the ones from ingalls : https://www.ingallseng.com/81260-14mm-fastcam-bolts_pair.html
As for the rear spacers, they simply install between the coil seat and the coil spring. You may need to compress the spring in order to get enough space to insert the spacer. The preferred placement is at the bottom (under the coil). The coil fit inside the cup of the spacer.
R50 Crosslink & Skidplates Installation Procedure
R51 Lift Kit Installation
- Raise the front of the truck
- Remove the front wheels
- Disconnect the Front stabilizer bar on both sides at the connecting rod level
- Disconnect the Upper ball joint from the knuckle and secure the knuckle. Make sure to support the knuckle with a jack stand and leave the upper ball joint nut attached. Once you start hammering the top of the knuckle, the ball joint will release and the nut will catch the falling knuckle. This step can be sketchy if you never done this before...take your time.
- remove the vdc wire from the bracket in order to prevent damage
- remove the 3 top 14mm bolts that secures the strut to the strut tower
- Remove 10mm bolt to remove the bracket if it is in the way
-slip lower mount out of bracket and lower the strut assembly
- once you have the strut in your hands, put the spacer on top and secure it with the 3 14mm bolts you removed from the previous steps. Use the included thread locking compound (1-2 drops per bolt) and torque the bolts to 22 ft-lb. ** Do not touch or torque the other nuts that are securing the new studs in the spacer. They are already torqued and locktited **
*** At this point your strut is ready for re-installation. Since the struts will need to be rotated 180 degrees (because of the spacers), you will need to re-install your driver strut on the passenger side and vice-versa. **** Use the nylok nuts with the washers and use again the thread locking compound. Torque to 22 ft-lb *** DO NOT OVER TORQUE OR YOU RISK DAMAGING THE SPACERS ***
- Raise the rear of the truck
- Remove the wheels
- While supporting the lower rear coil cup with a jack, remove the lower link bolt.
- keep note of the orientation of your coil. You want to put it back in the same way.
- insert the spacer between the top rubber isolator and the coil.
- re-install your coil with the jack while holding the coil in place. This might be a good time to use the help of a second person. re-torque your lower link bolt .
** At that point, your lift kit is installed. You will need to perform an alignment in order to get the camber back within specs. The R51 Pathfinder does have adjustable camber bolts (front and back). ***
Decals Installation Procedure
Please read these instructions all the way through before starting your application. The surface must be clean, and free of all oils, waxes and dirt. Use Windex or a comparable cleaner to clean the glass. If you use RainX, try Formula 409 to remove it. On painted surfaces wipe with a wax remover or alcohol if applying on freshly waxed paint. These Decals come to you in three layers. The top layer is called the Transfer Tape. It looks somewhat like regular masking tape. The middle layer is the actual Decal. The bottom layer is a Backing Paper treated with a release agent.
You will need a needle, a drivers license or a similar type squeegee. Try to apply Decal at room temperature ( 55 to 75 degrees) or above. The warmer it is, the better it works, but, try to avoid the direct sunlight. Take the drivers license or squeegee and flatten the Decal on both sides by rubbing over it. If your Decal was shipped rolled, lay it out flat and let it relax for an hour or so. The Decal will be easier to handle if flat. Next, try to make sure the air bubbles are removed as much as possible. There shouldn't be any bubbles but a few at this point.
Double check to make sure that your Sticker where meant for the inside or outside application. 99% of the time they will be for the outside. Turn the Decal upside down on the transfer tape and pull backing off SLOWLY. The backing is the heavier gauge paper. Using a needle or similar pointed object, hold edges of letters and all small areas while pulling away the backing. If a letter moves, just position it back into place by pushing backing down and move letter back to original position.
Now your ready to apply the Decal. Hold the Decal over your desired location and slowly apply the Decal to the surface. Try to touch the surface first at the center of the Decal and then flatten out to the sides. Next, use your drivers license or squeegee again to flatten as much of the Decal as possible. The transfer tape will allow you to rub the decal without damaging it.
Peel back an edge of transfer tape Slowly, your going to be watching for the small letters and corners, to make sure they are sticking to glass, and not to the transfer tape. Remember, patience is the key here. Do not rush. Once the transfer tape is removed, take your fingers and rub gently over the corners and points of your decal to make sure they are glued firmly to the surface. If by chance you have an air bubble(s), use your needle and give the air bubble(s) a small poke, this will create a small hole for the air to escape. Press around the air bubble, working the air to the small hole. The bubbles may disappear after a day or two.
REMEMBER, Once the Decal touches the glass or paint, it cannot be moved again. Patience is the key.